France, Spain and a Hurricane: The Bloody Battles for Control of North East Florida

North East Florida has seen its share of hurricanes.  Luckily, the region has, for the most part, escaped much of the devastation that these storms have caused in other parts of the state.  Due to its unique “indented” shoreline, most Atlantic hurricanes have bounced off the shore further south, avoiding landfall in North East Florida, and then collided with land again in the Carolinas.  Most Gulf of Mexico storms either track due North or are considerably weakened by the time they arrive in this part of the State.

It is reasonable to assume that the region had seen hurricanes for many millenniums before the first one was recorded.  The indigenous people that lived in Florida before the arrival of European settlers were much attuned to nature.  It is likely that they regarded hurricanes as part of the natural cycle – or perhaps warnings from the Gods. Many early explorers and colonizers did not have previous experience with the severe storms to guide their actions, sometimes leading to disastrous results.

The first recorded hurricane in North East Florida would change the course of history for Florida and perhaps the entire United States of America.

It took only a few decades after Ponce de Leon waded ashore at what is now St. Augustine in 1513 for European nations to take a keen interest in coastal North East Florida.  The Spanish, who had already colonized much of South America, saw it as an important shipping route for it’s cargos of precious metals and other products.  France was also interested in colonizing the area and in 1562 sent Jean Ribault to explore the new world.

Jean Ribault

Jean Ribault landed near St. Augustine and began sailing up the coast.  He came across the mouth of the St. Johns River where he built a stone monument and claimed all of Florida for France.  From there, he and his crew continued north to South Carolina where they built a fort.  They hoped that this would be a base from which to explore and colonize the new world.

The fledging fort needed supplies, so Ribault returned to France leaving the fort under the command of Captain Albert de la Pierria.  Upon his return to France, Ribault found the country in a state of upheaval as religious wars between Catholics and Protestants had taken hold.  Unable to raise money in France, and certain that he would not be helped by the Catholic government of Spain, Ribault went to England to ask for help, where he was promptly jailed for attempting to establish a French Colony in a Spanish territory and for suspicion of being a spy.  Although it was not clear what specific law was broken or on whose behalf he was supposedly spying, Ribault was confined to a London prison.

While Ribault was imprisoned, the fort that he left behind was in trouble.  The men were near starvation due to lack of supplies.  Local natives regularly attacked the settlement.  Tensions rose, and Captain de la Pierra was killed in a mutiny.  Stores and homes were looted and burned.  Leaderless, all but one of Ribault’s remaining men decided to return to Europe.  They constructed a crude open boat and set sail across the Atlantic Ocean.  With no navigation tools to guide them, the journey was dangerous and arduous.  With food running out, the crew eventually turned to cannibalism, killing and eating one of their own.  Most perished, but a few survived as they were rescued by a British ship.

In 1564 with Jean Ribault still in an English prison, Rene Goulaine de Laudonnier, Ribault’s second in command during the first expedition, was tapped to lead France’s return to Florida.  He led a fleet of three ships carrying about three hundred colonists.  Most were not soldiers, but ordinary people from all walks of life hoping to build a colony in the New World.  Almost all were Protestant Huguenots escaping the violence of the French Wars of Religion.

Rene Goulaine de Laudonnier

In June of that year, the flotilla reached the St. Johns River.  Sailing up the river they established an encampment on the bank near what today is the City of Jacksonville. To protect the new colony they built a triangle-shaped fort which they named Fort Caroline.  At first, the fledgling settlement prospered.  The expedition was well financed, they brought a lot of supplies with them from France, and the settlers had valuable and diverse skills.

Laudonniere established good relations with a local Timucua native tribe called the Saturiwa, named after its chief.  The tribe not only allowed the French to construct the fort in their territory, but actually assisted with its construction.  The French and the Saturiwas traded goods and were friendly towards each other.  This changed when Laudonniere refused Chief Saturiwas’ request for the French to help in an assault against their rival tribe, the Utina.

Read More About the Events that Shaped Northeast Florida History

The colony had been relying on trade with the natives and without it quickly began to run short on food and other supplies.  The settlers lost faith in the leadership of Rene Goulaine de Laudonnier.  At least two different mutinies occurred over the next several months.  Some people stole boats and set out to find greener pastures or became pirates, looting Spanish ships in the Caribbean.  Some of the deserters were captured by the Spanish and revealed to them the exact location of the French Settlement. The rest of the settlers simply wanted to go home and Laudonniere agreed.  They began preparation to abandon the fort and return to France.

As they were making preparations for departure reinforcements arrived.  Jean Ribault had been released from prison in England and returned to France.  There, the King authorized him to rescue Fort Caroline and sent him to Florida with about 500 soldiers and 100 settlers.  Upon arrival at Fort Caroline, Ribault relieved Laudonnier of his command.  Laudonnier made plans to return to France.  Soon, Ribault and most of his men would be dead.

Meanwhile, King Philip II of Spain heard about France’s determination to colonize North East Florida and he was not pleased.  Spain had invested considerable blood and treasure to colonize Central and South America as well as Florida.  Spanish ships laden with precious cargo regularly sailed from South America to Spain and needed all of Florida to be safe and welcoming to its ships.  Simply put, the French had to go.

Philip II ordered Pedro Menendez de Aviles, a loyal and accomplished naval officer, to immediately set sale for Florida.  His mission was to attack Fort Caroline and eradicate the French from the peninsula.  Menendez and his flotilla of 11 ships with 2000 soldiers arrived in Northeast Florida in 1565.

Pedro Menendez de Aviles

Upon arriving at the mouth of the Saint Johns River, Menendez found that the French had blockaded it making their journey to Fort Caroline impossible.  Only 800 of his crew had survived the Atlantic crossing.  He decided to regroup to plan his attack and sailed a short distance further south, taking refuge in a small harbor.  They began to build a crude fortification and Menendez named the settlement St. Augustine.  For good measure he claimed all of Florida for Spain.

Reports of the Spanish fleet were communicated to Ribault and he suspected, correctly, exactly why they were there and what their intentions were for Fort Caroline.  Not wanting to give the Spaniards time to fortify St. Augustine and regroup, he decided to take the offensive and attack.  He had to move quickly and had two choices:  he could march over land or he could sail the short distance and attack from the sea.

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Mother Nature had plans of her own.  A storm began to brew over the ocean.  Ribault’s men who had experience with such storms warned Ribault that it was a serious hurricane.  His Timucua friends, who were very adept at predicting storms, agreed.  It would be dangerous to sail in this weather.  Ribault is anxious to attack and ignores the warnings.  He gathers his best fighters and sets sail for St. Augustine.

Ribault’s ships had barely made it to St. Augustine when the storm hit.  As predicted by his officers and allies, it was by all accounts a serious hurricane.  Rain and high winds disabled the fleet.  Unable to maneuver, the French ships were pushed south by the storm.  It is believed that they ran ashore somewhere around present day Cape Canaveral but the three ships have never been found.

Watching from shore, Pedro Menendez sees the three French ships being carried south.  He immediately realizes that Fort Caroline must be vulnerable and marches his men north to attack.  They easily overwhelmed and captured the fort.  Although wounded, Rene Goulaine de Laudonnier, along with about fifty men managed to escape during the chaos and eventually returned to France.  The rest of the French inhabitants were brutally killed with only a few women and children spared.  Menendez renamed the settlement San Mateo

With San Mateo (previously Fort Caroline) secured, Menendez heads south to find the French ships that had been thrown off course.  He locates the shipwrecked soldiers who survived the ordeal and their leader, Jean Ribault, a bit south of St. Augustine at what is now Matanzas Inlet.  Captured, the French soldiers begged for mercy.  The Spanish would have none of it and slaughtered all 350 men – along with Jean Ribault.  Matanzas is a Spanish word that means “slaughtered.”

Matanzas Inlet Historic Marker

Had it not been for the intervention of that hurricane, Florida may have gone on to be a French colony rather than a Spanish one.  The French were never again able to establish a permanent settlement in Florida.  For his part, Menendez was appointed the Spanish Governor of Florida.  Menendez went on to establish a series of forts all along the Florida coast to assure that the peninsula would remain under Spanish control.

When word reached France, the citizens were outraged.  However, the king at the time, Charles IX, disliked the Huguenots so much that he was indifferent to the slaughter, even though the people murdered were his subjects.  Watching with great concern, one French man decided to take revenge on his own.

Dominique De Gourgues joined the military at a very young age, where he fought in the Italian wars.  He was captured by the Spanish and made to work a galley slave, chained to the oar of a ship.  He was eventually rescued; he never forgot or forgave the cruelty that he suffered under his Spanish captors.  When he learned about the fate of his fellow Frenchmen in Florida De Gourgues began to plot his retribution.

Dominique De Gourgues

Dominique De Gourgues sold everything that he owned and borrowed everything that he could to finance his voyage of retaliation.  He was able to finance three ships and recruit about one hundred and eighty sailors and fighters.  His stated mission was to participate in the slave trade, which was then legal.  He kept his real mission to himself until the flotilla arrived in Cuba in August of 1567.

In Cuba, De Gourgues revealed the true purpose of the journey to his men.  Speaking with force and eloquence he reminded them of the brutality of the Spanish and the stain that had been inflicted by them on the people of France.  “We must avenge the insult to our county,” he implored them.  “I will always be at your head.  I will bear the brunt of the danger.  Will you refuse to follow me?”  All of his men heartily agreed and they soon set out to confront their enemy.

The three ships sailed through the night and anchored at the mouth of the St. Marys River (the current border between Georgia and Florida.)  To their dismay, they saw hundreds of Timucua warriors on the river bank, painted and primed for battle.  The Indians, by this time, were in open warfare with the Spanish.  They mistook the French ships for Spanish and were determined not to allow them on shore.

Luckily for the French, they had on board a trumpeter who had spent much time in Florida and knew the natives well.  He got into a small boat and headed for shore.  Once the warriors recognized him, their attitude changed completely.  The Indians were so delighted that they danced along the shore.  De Gourgues and his men were welcomed with great pomp and ceremony.  The next morning a meeting was held between the French and Timucua leaders in which they agreed to act together against their mutual enemy, the Spaniards.

Three days later they were ready to attack.  When darkness fell, the Indian warriors set out on foot, covered in war paint and armed with arrows, spears, and knives.  The three ships sailed southward. 

They came up on Fort Caroline (renamed San Mateo by the Spanish) at dawn and saw that the fort appeared incomplete.  It was guarded by two bunk houses.  The Spanish were completely unaware of their presence as they had just risen from their beds.  The French waded across a swamp, surprising and overwhelming the first bunk house.  At least sixty Spanish soldiers were killed in the attack.  Then, they quickly moved on and dealt the same fate to those guarding the second bunk house.  The French set up cannons on top of the second bunk house and aimed them at Fort Caroline.

“Yonder are the thieves who have stolen this land from our King!” De Gourgues cried.  “Yonder are the murderers who have massacred our French!  On!  On!  Let us avenge our King!  Let us show that we are Frenchmen!”

By this time, the Spaniards inside the fort realized that they were under attack.  About fifty men slipped away on foot, presumably heading for the safety of St. Augustine.  Many of them were slain by Indians waiting in the woods.  Those remaining were not as lucky as the few who safely escaped.  Although they tried to defend the fort, they found themselves surrounded by not only the French, but by the Indians that approached through the forest.  Many were savagely slaughtered.  But De Gourgues ordered many to be taken alive because he had other plans for them.

The Spanish captives were marched to the same grove of trees where Pedro Menendez had hanged his French captives two years earlier.  The plaque placed at the site by Menendez which read “Not as to Frenchmen, but as to Lutherans” still remained.  De Gourgues ordered the prisoners hung from the same branches and replaced the plaque with one of his own, inscribed “Not as to Spaniards, but as to traitors, robbers, and murderers.”

Dominique De Gourgues’ mission was accomplished.  He would have liked to take St. Augustine, but he determined that it was too well fortified.  That would have to wait for another day.  And so, De Gourgues and his men boarded their three ships and set sail for home.  Along the way, for good measure, they captured three Spanish merchant ships, took their bounty of various treasures, and threw all of the ships crew overboard to drown in the Atlantic Ocean.

Although De Gourgues was treated as a hero by his fellow French citizens when he returned, the politics of the time were not in his favor.  Spain was demanding that he pay with his life for the slaughter of its countrymen.  His own King was indifferent to the plight of the Huguenots and not happy about his unauthorized adventure.  Concerned for his safety Dominique De Gourgues withdrew from the public eye and lived in obscurity for the rest of his life.  He died in 1593.

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National Park Service Fort Caroline National Memorial


Suggested Further Reading (ad):

South of the St. Marys River - Stories from the History of Northeast Florida -

Laudonniere & Fort Caroline: History and Documents

Hidden History of St. Augustine

The Enterprise of Florida: Pedro Menendez de Aviles and the Spanish Conquest of 1565-1568






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